Indonesia: Life In The Islands

Ramadan

The Islamic fasting month of Ramadan began almost two weeks ago. Until Lebaran and Idhul Firtri, the holy days marking the end of the fast, Muslims cannot eat, smoke, or engage in impure thoughts or actions during the day. I learned about Ramadan in elementary school (where I remember believing that Muslims didn’t eat anything for a month), but unless you’re in a Muslim country you don’t realize what a giant deal it is. The mosques, my ever-present alarm clock, now operate almost all day long. The teachers at my school explained that because of the piety required for fasting month, extra Arabic prayer and Indonesian sermons are broadcast throughout the day.

At 3 am, most Muslims wake up and eat a huge breakfast to last them until 5:30 pm, when it is time to pray Mahgrib and buka puasa, or break open the fast. Like I wrote earlier about my trip to Bali, at 3:30 am the streets near me are full of people chatting and dressed for the day, eating, hanging out, and selling food from their warungs. They might sleep for another hour after breakfast, but since morning prayer is at 4:30, there really isn’t much more time before they have to be up for good. If you choose sleep over breakfast, like Suharyadi did the other day, then you’re out of luck—no food or water until dusk.

It’s strange to see brands I consider American, like McDonald’s and Aquafina, showcase ads and commercials for Selamat Puasa (good fasting). McDonald’s has a whole separate campaign which focuses on getting people to break the fast with their fast food. It kind of reminds me of the ridiculous McDonald’s commercials from the US a few years ago, when they tried to get high schoolers to eat McDonald’s after their proms. Everyone in the Indonesian ads are stuffing their faces with McDonald’s after fasting all day, smiling and chatting at they pound giant sodas and nasi putih. The ads for bottled water usually just showcase people tearing the wrapping off the top of a bottle with a sigh of relief and pouring water down their throats at the end of the day. Very interesting. I also see billboards for medicine that helps promote “jadi puasa penyakitan,” or healthy fasting (healthy fasting seems like an oxymoron to me, but what do I know?).

I try to respect the teachers and students at my school by not eating or drinking anything while I’m there. But sometimes the teachers insist that I drink water, and then stare at me while I do it. I asked Suharyadi the other day if he thought I was weak for having to drink during the day, and he admitted that yes, he did. So I almost think that watching me drink or eat something makes the people who choose to fast feel prouder of their endurance. I mean, I’m not from a tropical climate! I have no idea how the kids can sit in all class all day without even drinking water, but I guess they’ve been doing it since they were young. The year you first make it through a day without eating is considered a very proud time in a child’s life, and lots of children ask their parents to be allowed to fast for the whole month—according to Ibu Moerdiati. Some of my students seem less than pleased to be deprived all day. I want to ask them about it, but I feel like it’s a touchy subject.

The reason I’ve had so many days off recently is because the first week of Ramadan was spent studying the Qu’ran and practicing various prayers and practices Muslims need to know when they make the pilgrimage to Mecca. I went and watched one day and it was really fascinating. It’s disconcerting for me to see my goofy students, the ones who laugh and make fun of each other (and me!) act so pious and prayful. Sometimes I look into the musholla (prayer room) at school and the students inside are so deeply engaged in the prayers and rituals they don’t even see me. Again, this is not a blanket statement—there are some kids who just seem to be going through the motions, and would rather have the days off than spend them studying their (their parents’?) religion.

Pak Tedy has asked me if I want to buka puasa at his house next week, and I think I’m going to. That would mean fasting for a few days, but I’m out of food in my house anyway and it’s an excuse not to go to the grocery store. Also, I’ve been wanting to get up and go eat breakfast on the streets at 3 am—so I think this weekend I’m going to try it out. I just need to brace myself for the stares and giggles—some people think it’s unbearably funny to see me eat from the street stands.

Apparently for Lebaran, SMA 3 has some kind of celebration at the school that I was invited to. I’m not sure exactly what is being celebrated and what we’re going to do, but I think it might be a final night of breaking fast together. Part of Lebaran is getting new clothes (?) so today Principal Tri bought me a SWEET turquoise batik outfit. I’m taking it to a tailor this weekend, but it’s going to be unbelievably funny—the top is covered with lacy flowers and the bottom is batik print. Like most of the clothes the school gives me, it’s extremely form-fitting—I can’t wait to prance around in it. Selamat Puasa!

posted by Caitlin @ 12:40 AM